The Lost Coast Trail travels along a stunning section of coastline within the King Range National Conservation Area. In this region the mountains end abruptly next to the sea creating a section of rugged coastline that feels cut off from the rest of the world. Backpackers who tackle this isolated 3-4 day trek will be rewarded with dramatic wild coastline and amazing wildlife viewing.
The Lost Coast Trail is divided into two sections: north and south. The northern section is between Mattole Beach trailhead and Black Sands Beach trailhead (at Shelter Cove) and is what most people are referring to when they talk about The Lost Coast Trail. All the information in this post refers to the north section of The Lost Coast Trail.
Just the Facts
Location: King Range National Conservation Area (NCA), Northern California
Distance: 24.6 miles
Days required: 3-4
Route type: Point-to-point
Type of trail: 2/3 walking on sandy/rocky beach, 1/3 singletrack on grassy seaside bluffs
Vertical Ascent: 1,579 feet
Max Altitude: 138 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
When to go: April to October
Permits: Permits are required
Fees: $10 per permit
Maps: Click here for an overview map
Dogs: Allowed
Why You Should Go
- Unique opportunity to experience isolated coastal wilderness.
- Given the trail quota, visitors are limited and it’s relatively easy to find solitude while hiking.
- Great opportunity for viewing wildlife.
Things to Consider Before Going
- During and after periods of heavy rainfall creeks may become impassable.
- Portions of the trail are impassable at high tide, requiring you to plan hiking times with a tide chart.
- Ticks, rattlesnakes, and poison oak are a concern.
- Bear canisters are required.
- The trail is along exposed coastline with little protection from high winds and sun exposure.
- Always be aware of “rogue” waves, larger than average sets of waves can occur and have swept inattentive hikers into the ocean.
- Much is this hike is on soft sand or slippery rock which makes for slow and difficult hiking.
Where is The Lost Coast Trail?
The Lost Coast Trail is located within the King Range National Conservation Area (NCA), along the Northern California coast. It is about 230 miles north of San Francisco and 60 miles south of Eureka.
The area is named The Lost Coast because the coastal mountains in this area made this stretch of coastline too difficult to build a highway along. As a result, highway 1 diverts inland just south of the King Range NCA and ultimately meets up with highway 101 bypassing the coastline entirely.
Getting to the Trailheads
The trail is bookmarked by Mattole Trailhead at the north and Black Sands Beach Trailhead at the South. Allow at least two hours to drive the 50 mile stretch between the two trailheads.
Given its remote location it takes several hours to travel from highway 101 out to the trailheads. Be sure to fill up your gas tank when you exit highway 101 and get ready for some narrow, steep, and winding roads as you make your way out to the coast.
All roads are accessible by sedan, but a high clearance vehicle will better handle the abundant and unforgiving potholes between the two trailheads.
Shuttle Operators
Many hikers choose to park a car at one trailhead and then drive a second car to the other trailhead for a convenient one-way hike . If you don’t have a second car, or want to save on driving time, you can pay to have a company shuttle you.
I highly recommend parking at the Shelter Cove Parking Lot at the southern end of the trail and then to pay to get shuttled to the Mattole Beach Trailhead. This saves you the headache of driving yourself out to Mattole Beach, which is far more remote than Shelter Cove.
The following companies are permitted to transport hikers in the King Range:
Bill’s Lost Coast Shuttle 707-442-1983
Car Camping Near The Trailheads
Near Mattole Trailhead
Mattole Campground is a BLM operated campground located at the beach adjacent to the start of The Lost Coast Trail. There are 14 first-come, first-served tent/trailer sites. The facilities offered are: picnic tables, fire rings, and vault toilets. There is no water. Camping fee is $8.00.
Near Black Sands Beach Trailhead
Nadelos Campground is a BLM operated campground about 15 minutes southeast of Black Sands Beach. There are 8 first-come, first-served tent campsites. The facilities offered are: picnic tables, fire rings, and vault toilets. There is no potable water but there was a small creek flowing when I was there. Camping fee is $8.00.
Wailaki Campground is a BLM operated campground adjacent to Nadelos Campground. There are 13 first-come, first-served tent/trailer campsites. The facilities offered are: picnic tables, fire rings, and vault toilets. There is no potable water but there was a small creek flowing when I was there. Camping fee is $8.00.
Tolkan Campground is a BLM operated campground located 25 minutes north of Black Sands Beach. There are 5 trailer and 4 tent campsites. Sites are first-come, first served and facilities offered are: Picnic tables, fire rings, and vault toilets. There is no water. Camping fee is $8.00. If you enjoy mountain biking this campsite also offers the added bonus of being right next to the Tolkan Terrain Park and Paradise Royal Mountain Bike Trail System.
When to Backpack the Lost Coast Trail
The average temperature for The Lost Coast Trail is very comfortable year round. From May to October average high temperatures are between 60-70 degrees and low temperatures average in the 50’s. From November to March high temperatures average between 50-60 degrees and low temperatures average in the 40’s.
Rainfall in the region is the limiting weather factor for hiking. The Lost Coast is a wet place and receives on average 100 to 200 inches of rainfall per year! During storms, creeks along this route can rise quickly and become impassable, leaving hikers stranded between larger creeks. Storms can also cause rising surf that pounds the beach making hiking unsafe. On average the “dry” season is between June and September, however this can vary widely from year to year. For these reasons it is important to pay attention to the weather leading up to your trip and the forecasted weather for your trip dates.
Difficulty
Distance: 24.6 miles
Days required: 3-4
Type of trail: 2/3 walking on the sandy/rocky beach, 1/3 singletrack on grassy seaside bluffs
Vertical Ascent: 1,579 feet
Max Altitude: 138 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
The Lost Coast Trail has relatively little elevation change, but what it lacks in elevation it makes up for with terrain. Two-thirds of the trail is along the beach in either sandy or rocky conditions. Rocky sections vary from small pebbles to rocks several feet wide and can be extremely slippery when wet (trekking poles can be extremely helpful here). During periods of low tide there are opportunities to get down to the hard packed sand near the water for firmer footing. Overall, trudging slowly through soft sand and carefully stepping between slippery rocks can be hard on your knees and ankles and is more tiring than hiking on hard packed dirt. So, plan for slower than normal hiking speeds due to the terrain.
Permits for the Lost Coast Trail
The BLM requires permits year-round for those camping overnight in the King Range Wilderness.
There is a trailhead quota in place which limits the number of visitors entering the trail to:
- 60 people per day from May 15 to September 15
- 30 people per day from September 16 to May 14
Permits become available on October 1st for the entire following year. This trail is becoming increasingly popular so I recommend marking your calendar and planning to book on October 1st.
Groups are limited to 5 persons per permit with a total group cap of 15 persons (3 permits).
Cost: $10 per permit
Maps
You can download the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) King Range NCA map here.
For greater detail, I would suggest using the Caltopo Website to plan and print maps.
Where to Camp on The Lost Coast Trail
Along The Lost Coast Trail there are no established campsites and you can camp anywhere you like. Choosing campsites near creeks will provide easy water collection. To observe Leave No Trace principles the best campsite choice is a location that looks like someone has camped there before. By concentrating camping in once location it will keep the surrounding area pristine. You will find driftwood wind break structures along the trail. These are fine to use as a campsite but the BLM requests that you do not build new structures or add to existing structures.
Waste on the Lost Coast Trail
There are no bathrooms along The Lost Coast Trail, and the steep mountains along the beach make it difficult to follow the usual Leave No Trace guidelines for doing your business. When hiking The Lost Coast Trail the proper protocol for pooping is to make your daily deposit in the wet sand of the intertidal zone (the area of sand between the high and low tide zones). This seemed crazy to me at first because I am used moving away from water before going, however the BLM states this method is best for maximizing decomposition.
When nature calls:
- Get as close to the water as possible without compromising your safety
- Dig a 6-8” hole,
- Do your business,
- Completely cover the hole
As always, remember to pack out all trash, toilet paper, and feminine hygiene products.
Campfires
Campfire restrictions usually go into effect mid-June through October. Campfire permits are required and are included with the overnight use permit. It’s best to call the King Range Project Office (707-986-5400) for current restrictions. Build campfires in existing fire rings to minimize the impact on the land and familiarize yourself with campfire safety skills.
Water along the Lost Coast Trail
Water sources are plentiful along the Lost Coast Trail. The larger coastal creeks flow year round along this route and can be found every few miles. Always filter or purify water before drinking.
Food storage
Hard sided bear canisters are required for overnight trips in the King Range Wilderness. Canisters are available to rent from outdoor retailers (like REI) or from the following locations:
Lost Coast Adventure Tours
707-986-9895
King Range NCA Project Office
768 Shelter Cove Road, Whitethorn
707-986-5400
BLM Arcata Field Office
1695 Heindon Road, Arcata
707-825-2300
Petrolia General Store
40 Sherman Avenue, Petrolia
707-629-3455 Hours
Shelter Cove General Store
7272 Shelter Cove Road, Shelter Cove
707-986-7733
Humboldt State University’s Center of Activities
1 Harpst Street, Arcata
707-826-3357
Hazards
High Tides can create several long sections of the Lost Coast Trail that are impassable. These sections are indicated on The King Range NCA map. As a general rule these sections become difficult to pass when the tide rises to around 3+ feet. Beach erosion, weather, and surf conditions will also impact your ability to pass through these sections on any given day. As a general rule, it is a good idea to plan on traveling through these sections when the tide is receding. Always consult the current tide tables before planning your trip and bring a copy with you for reference.
Northern Elephant Seals are often found along the beach adjacent to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. Although they look fat and sluggish (they can weigh up to 4,500 pounds), they can move quickly if provoked. Take care to give them space and not to agitate them.
Ticks are prevalent in brushy and grassy areas near the coast (I found several of them on me over the course of my hike) and can be carriers of Lyme and other diseases. It is very important to check yourself and pets frequently so you can remove ticks quickly.
Rattlesnakes are found in tall grassy areas, under rocks and wood, and along the beach. Look where you step and listen for their rattling sound. During my hike I came within 2 feet of one that was chilling quietly in the shade of a rock!
Poison oak can also be found along the Lost Coast Trail. Be sure to familiarize yourself with what it looks like before hiking.
Dogs
You are allowed to bring your 4 legged friends along for this hike. However the sandy and rocky trail conditions can wreak havoc on dogs’ paws. Your dog should be in excellent hiking condition and the BLM recommends dogs wear dog booties for paw protection. When on the trail dogs should be under voice control at all times and must be on leash when in developed campgrounds.
Where to Eat After
If you hike southbound and finish at Shelter Cover there are a few great food and drink options very near the trailhead!
Mi Mochima is a 4 minute drive from Black Sands Beach Trailhead. It recently opened and offers some delicious Venezuelan cuisine to satisfy your post hike hunger.
Gyppo Ale Mill is 2 minutes further down the road. This brew house just opened in the spring of 2018 and is a great spot to grab a beer and food while watching the sunset from their beautiful patio.
My Lost Coast Trail Itinerary
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Most choose to backpack The Lost Coast Trail in 3 days, 2 nights or 4 days, 3 nights. I went for the 3 days, 2 nights option and had plenty of time for long naps on the beach along the way.
Day 1: Mattole Campground to Spanish Creek Area (10.5 miles)
Day 2: Spanish Creek Area to Miller Flat Area (6.5 miles)
Day 3: Miller Flat Area to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.4 miles)
My Lost Coast Trail Trip Report
Day 0: Travel Day
Being a glutton for punishment, I decided to tackle the LONG drive from Orange County to Shelter Cove in one big day. The first 8 hours of my journey was the usual uninspired drive along the unbending stretch of the 5 freeway that joins LA and the Bay Area. Once San Francisco and the 5 freeway were in my rearview mirror I was rewarded as the scenery turned from monotonous to gorgeous. The road began to gently wind through wheat colored hills sprinkled with old oak trees and slowly morphed into a narrow road that weaved through thick redwood forest. Despite the interesting scenery it was still a long journey and finally, after bingeing on podcasts and In-N-Out for 11 tiresome hours, I reached Nadelos Campground and my home for the night.
Day 1: Mattole Campground to Spanish Creek Area (10.5 miles, 5.5 hours hiking time)
After breaking camp I made my way to the Shelter Cove Parking Lot for my scheduled 7am shuttle pickup.
I found myself in the parking area with two groups of fresh eyed hikers eager and excited to set out on a wilderness adventure. Before leaving, the shuttle driver talked briefly about the hazards on the trail, BLM regulations, and answered questions. With orientation out of the way, we piled into a Mercedes Sprinter Van and set out on the 2 hour drive along the narrow, winding road to get to Mattole Trailhead and the starting point to our hike.
By 9:15, I had my pack on my back and I was ready to set off. Other than a bulletin board and a map at the trailhead there was little indication that I was embarking along The Lost Coast Trail. There were no trail markers, or even really a trail at all, just the Pacific Ocean to my right and the mountains of the King Range to my left. However, with this setup you really have to try to get lost so I pointed myself towards Mexico and started walking.
The first several miles of hiking were along gently sloping sand dunes dotted with iceplant and driftwood. The soft sand gave way with every step taxing my legs and slowing my progress to a crawl. I switched my route down to the wet sand, darting up and down the beach to avoid waves, while searching for firm footing. I was surprised, however, to find that even the “hard pack” sand didn’t provide much stability. My strides where short and uneven as I struggled to push off from the ground that gave way and shifted constantly under my feet. Soon the wind also blew its challenges my way with gusts hard enough to send me walking sideways several steps while struggling to use my trekking poles to keep me upright. “Welcome to the Lost Coast!” I thought.
After roughly 3 miles of trudging along the sand I spotted Punta Gorda Lighthouse and I was finally able to get off the sand and onto a glorious section of firm trail. At the lighthouse I dropped my pack and climbed the narrow, rusted-iron staircase for a better view. From my vantage point, I could see a colony of Northern elephant seals camped on the beach below. Most were napping in the warm mid morning sun but a few put on a good show as they sparred for dominance.
The Punta Gorda Lighthouse was built in 1910 to warn sailors of the treacherous coastline. The location for the lighthouse is so remote that the building materials had to be carried along a cable stretched from a ship to the shore and then dragged down the beach by horse drawn sleds! The lighthouse stopped operating in 1951 when modern navigational equipment made the lighthouse unnecessary.
Back on the trail, I was blesses with another 1.25 miles of firm trail before dropping back onto the sand at Sea Lion Gulch. The beach section between Sea Lion Gulch and Randall Creek can be impassable at high tide and the tide was coming in so I settled in a safe location for lunch and little midday nap. Once the tide was receding I made my way slowly along the narrow section of shore following brief trails up into the hillside to avoid the narrowest sections of beach still covered by the sea. At Randall Creek a nice firm trail appeared as the steep cliffs and hillside gave way to gentle bluffs once again. From there, the last 1.5 miles to Spanish Flat was smooth sailing. Once at Spanish Flat I was able to grab one of several makeshift windbreaks that have been built from driftwood as a campsite for the night.
Day 2: Spanish Creek Area to Miller Flat Area (6.5 miles, 3 hours moving time)
The following morning I slept in late knowing that I didn’t have to rush to cross any high tide areas and I only had to cover 6.5 miles. Sipping my coffee, I watching the waves crash against the rocky shoreline until I saw the last of my fellow campers disappear over the horizon.
The first 2.25 miles of the day were kind and followed a route along the hillside with firm footing. I felt as if I was practically running along the glorious hard dirt compared to my slow progress on the sand the day before. But, the compact ground soon ended as the path forced me back to the sand shortly after crossing Kinsey Creek.
The following mile, mile and a half, offered up the challenge of again walking along the sand with the added fun of long stretches of wet rocks. The rocky sections consisted of several hundred yards of brick to bowling ball sized rocks. The rocks were smooth from a lifetime of being polished by relentless waves, which, combined with being wet from the receding tide, made them extremely slippery. Additionally, most rocks where just light enough to surprise me by wobbling as I shifted my weight onto them. To avoid catastrophic ankle injury, I methodically picked my route and relied heavily on my trekking poles to help me balance under the weight of my pack. Miraculously, I made it across the slippery minefield while not once falling on my ass.
Roughly ½ mile after crossing Big Creek I had the opportunity again to seek refuge on the firm trail on the bluff. From this point it was an easy 2-2 ½ miles to Big Flat Creek, my stopping point for the second night. After crossing Big Flat Creek I took an immediate left and headed inland towards the dense trees that lined the east side of the creek. Tucked within these trees I found numerous heavily used campsites, most with firepits and benches fashioned by previous occupants.
Day 3: Miller Flat Area to Black Sands Beach Trailhead (8.4 miles, 4 hours moving time)
My final day began early to avoid the impassable high tide section stretching from Miller Flat to Gitchell Creek. As if to reward me for my early wake up, I was joined by several deer out for an early morning stroll. As I hiked along the singlestrack, I watched the fawns bounce energetically after their mothers, their tiny bodies comically coming in and out of view as they cleared the tops of the tall dry grass.
Leaving the deer behind, the first ½ mile was a lovely warm-up along firm ground which gave me a chance to wake up my legs before returning again to the sand. After that, the majority of the day was spent alternating between rocky seashore and sand. But this time, the beach hiking was easier than it had been the days before. Either the sand was a little firmer or I was getting used to the effort of hiking in the sand. Either way, the miles passed by and I could tell I was nearing the trailhead as day hikers and surf fishermen appeared on the horizon.
The final stretch of the Lost Coast Trail was along a wide pristine black sand beach. The clean and uniform black sand appeared strange after seeing so much driftwood and varied terrain along the previous sections of the trail. Before I knew it the houses came into view on the cliffs ahead and I found myself at the trailhead and back in civilization.
Additional Information
Bureau of Land Management- King Range NCA Website
King Range Project Office
PHONE: 707-986-5400
EMAIL: BLM_CA_Web_KR@blm.gov
ADDRESS: 768 Shelter Cove Road / PO Box 189, King Range Project Office, Whitethorn, CA 95589
Thanks!
Thanks so much for checking out my backpacking guide for The Lost Coast Trail. I Hope that this guide will help you have an excellent trip. As always, please remember to follow the Leave No Trace principles to preserve the natural state of the places we love. Feel free to comment below if you have any questions, suggestions, or good vibes you want to share. If you found this guide useful, please like, pin, and share using the “share” icons below.
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great write up -thanks we are headed to the Lost Coast in September. cheers!
Awesome! Have a great time.
Thanks for the helpful info, Tracy! Looking forward to tackling this beauty next week.