High Sierra Trail Trip Report

The High Sierra Trail is a 66-mile route that traverses the Sierra Nevada from east to west. Because the route crosses a mountain range, the two trailheads are actually six hours apart, making getting to and from the trail challenging! But despite the logistical challenges, the High Sierra Trail was well worth the trouble. Along the way I camped at gorgeous alpine lakes, met some amazing people, soaked in my own private backcountry hot spring, and climbed the tallest peak in the lower 48. For anyone looking for an epic one week adventure in the southern Sierra Nevada, the High Sierra Trail is an excellent choice.

For details on how I planned this trip check out my High Sierra Trail Backpacking Trail Guide.

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Day One: Crescent Meadow to Mehrten Creek

Distance: 5.4 miles
Vertical gain: 2,199 feet
Elevation range: 6690 to 7677 feet

On the first day of the trip, I woke up early, eager to start my adventure. Fueled by coffee and excitement, I threw my backpack into my tiny Ford Fiesta rental car and set out towards Sequoia National Park and the start of the High Sierra Trail. Once in the city of Visalia, I traded the rental car for an Uber and we continued into the mountains. As we drove, we left the flat cityscape behind and climbed the winding mountain road high into the park. As we gained elevation, the dry hills transformed into forest and soon we were surrounded by breathtaking giant sequoia trees.

After picking up my permit at the visitor center, we headed back down the road to the High Sierra Trailhead. And by two in the afternoon, my hike was underway. Since I was starting later in the day and it was my first day at elevation, my plan was an easy five and a half mile hike to my first campsite.

The trail began with a brief stroll among giant sequoias before breaking into an open hillside above the Middle Fork Kaweah River. From there, I followed the trail along the north wall of the canyon alternating between dense forest and open sections offering amazing views of the river below and the Great Western Divide ahead. 

After a few hours of easy hiking I made it to the crossing of Mehrten Creek. Following a posted sign and faint trail, I found the bear box and several established campsites on the hillside above the trail.

I was expecting the campsites to be tucked in among dense trees with little view. But, I was pleasantly surprised to find beautiful sites perched along the steep hillside with great views through the canyon.

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With my first day complete, I had plenty of time to set up camp, cook a hot meal, and enjoy the sunset.

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Day Two: Mehrten Creek to Hamilton Lake

Distance: 8.7 miles
Vertical gain: 3,500 feet
Elevation range: 7,193 to 8,304 feet

The following morning, I continued along the hillside, enjoying its stunning over-the-shoulder views of the Middle Fork Kaweah River Canyon. 

I soon crossed the Buck Creek Bridge and began the 600-foot climb to Bearpaw Meadow, home of the Bearpaw Campgound and the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp.

Bearpaw Campground is a view less campground that offers pit toilets and piped water. While adaquate, I preferred the more scenic camping spots at Mehrten Creek (5.5miles) and Buck Creek (8.5 miles) earlier on.

Bearpaw High Sierra Camp, on the other hand, offers fancy canvas tent accommodations and home cooked meals for its guests (reservations only). If you have the cash for a little backcountry luxury, this spot offers amazing views, hot food, and beer!

Once past Bearpaw Meadow, I descended 600 feet and crossed the bridge over Lone Pine Creek. From the bridge I got an impressive view of the creek below as it plunged through a deep V-shaped granite slot and rushed towards the canyon floor.

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From the bridge, I began the final climb for the day up to Hamilton Lake. This ascent doesn’t look like much on the map, but I found myself repeatedly wondering if I was there yet. Finally, I crested the climb and Hamilton Lake came into view through the trees.

Standing at the edge of the lake, I was stunned by the sheer size of the Great Western Divide towering over Hamilton Lake. Looking up, I struggled to see exactly how the trail was going to lead me over that behemoth the next morning. The mountain walls seemed impossibly steep and I could see no discernible route over them. I remembered reading that the trail builders had to blast a trail into the granite wall above the lake to make room for a trail. Seeing it in person made me realize how daunting of a task that must have been.   

Pushing thoughts of the climb aside, I went searching for a campsite. Hamilton Lake is a popular destination for hikers of the High Sierra Trail and those planning trips into Nine Lakes Basin. There were about 20 other campers already scattered around the western bank of the lake. Despite the crowd, I was able to find a beautiful campsite perched on a ledge 30 feet above the lake. I cooked dinner, threw my scented items in the bear box, and settled in for the night.

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Day Three: Hamilton Lake to Moraine Lake

Distance: 12.7 miles
Vertical gain: 3,911 feet
Elevation range: 8,343 to 10,707 feet

On my third day, I woke before sunrise to get an early start on the 2,500 foot climb over the Great Western Divide. In the early morning light, I followed several long switchbacks as the trail climbed gradually above the northern side of Hamilton Lake. After climbing roughly 1,000 feet, the trail came to the steep granite cliffs of Hamilton Gorge. Here, crews had to blast into the impassible cliffs to create an impressive narrow trail that passes around the gorge and sometime straight through the rock itself. 

From the gorge, the trail continued upward passing a smaller unnamed lake and then Precipice Lake. From there it was an easy 300 feet of elevation before reaching the Kaweah Gap, my route over the Great Western Divide.

Once over the gap, I was rewarded with stunning views of The Big Arroyo to the south.

With the big climb of the day out of the way, the next three miles were a glorious gradual descent into the belly of The Big Arroyo. This section of trail was stunning as the majority of this section was wide open allowing panoramic views of the massive U-shaped valley and surrounding jagged peaks.

After enjoying the relaxing descent to The Big Arroyo Trail Junction, I was faced with the challenging task of climbing all the way back out of the valley to reach Moraine Lake. Over the following two and a half miles I climbed steadily along the northeast wall of the canyon. After already making the big climb over the Great Western Divide in the morning, this climb should have felt comparably easier. But the fatigue in my legs, combined with the lack of view, made the climb feel longer than it was. I found myself constantly thinking I was just about at the top only to check my GPS to see I had a long way to go.

Eventually, I crested the ridge of the canyon and I veered off the High Sierra Trail to follow the trail to Lake Moraine. The Lake Moraine detour is common for people hiking the High Sierra trail as it makes an excellent place to camp.

Once at Lake Moraine I was absolutely beat from the days hiking. Thankfully, there were plenty of campsites to be found, as there were only two other hikers there that evening. I found a nice spot among the trees on the east side of the lake near the bear box. Exhausted after the full day of hiking, I set up my tent, ate dinner in the dark, and immediately snuggled into my sleeping bag.

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Day Four: Moraine Lake to Junction Meadow

Distance: 13.6 miles
Vertical gain: 1,596 feet
Elevation range: 6,708 to 9,257 feet

The next morning, knowing I had a relatively easy day ahead, I allowed myself to have a leisurely morning. Armed with a cup of coffee, I sat lakeside and watched the rising sun illuminate the Kaweah Peaks in the distance before setting out.

To rejoin the High Sierra trail, I continued to follow the Moraine Lake trail as it skirted around Sky Parlor Meadow. As I walked past the meadow several deer grazing in the early morning sun caught my eye. I stood quietly, peering through the trees to watch their morning grazing routine. I lingered for several minutes, allowing myself to soak up the serene scene before continuing onward. 

After rejoining the High Sierra Trail I began the long descent down to the Kern River.The trail began by descending moderately, but soon transitioned to steep switchbacks that quickly lead me down to the canyon floor and into the Kern Trench. 

Once down to the river the trail turned north and headed upstream. This section of trail follows an incredibly straight path through the glacially formed Kern Trench. As I followed the Kern River upward I marveled at the canyon walls rising up to 5,000 feet above on either side.

Roughly two miles up the river I arrived at the famous Kern Hot Spring. The guide books said to expect crowds at the spring, but when I arrived mid-day there were only two other hikers. Since the man-made concrete hot tub was occupied, I walked around to where the runoff from the tub pours into the river. In this spot, the hot spring water creates a natural pool at the side of the river that is warm but not hot. This turned out to be a perfect spot for a soak while I waited my turn. Once the other two hikers had packed up I took my turn soaking in the concrete tub. Despite some algae buildup, the soak was a fantastic treat after four days on the trail and I cannot believe I had it all to myself!

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The rest of the day was spent following the river upstream. Since I was hiking in mid-September, the majority of the stream crossings were either dry or very low so I was able to cover ground quickly. But during the early season, several of these streams can be difficult to cross.

At Junction Meadow, I stopped for the night in the established camping area next to the river. The area already had three groups of friendly hikers camped there and we spent the evening sitting by a fire exchanging stories about our hikes.

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Day Five: Junction Meadow to Guitar Lake

Distance: 11.1 miles
Vertical gain: 4,446 feet
Elevation range: 8,069 to 11,598 feet

On the fifth day of the trip, I woke up before the sun to get an early start. The day would be almost entirely uphill and I wanted to ensure I got to bed early in preparation for climbing Mount Whitney the next day.

Immediately after leaving the campground the trail headed steeply upward. Over the next six miles, the trail would climb nearly 3,000 feet. Despite the work, I was rewarded with over-the-shoulder views back toward Kern Canyon that only got better the higher I climbed.

Soon the High Sierra Trail joined with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and the John Muir Trail (JMT). Traveling as one, the three trails headed south towards Crabtree Meadow, the gateway to Mount Whitney. Along this section I was passed by several PCT thru-hikers making their way south towards the Mexican border. After hiking for just five days, I could only imagine what it must been like for them several months into their journey.

For the next three and a half miles, I followed the same route as the PCT/JMT hikers until the High Sierra Trail and the JMT turned east towards Crabtree Ranger Station and Mount Whitney, parting ways with the PCT.

Shortly after I passed Crab tree Ranger Station, and from there it was another two miles and 1,000 feet of elevation to Guitar Lake.

Guitar Lake (it gets its name because it resembles a guitar) rests at 11,467 feet in a treeless basin at the foot of Mount Whitney. Although the summit of Mount Whitney is only 1.2 miles (as the crow flies) from the lake, the summit appeared impossibly far away. For the second time on the trip I looked at my map and then at the mountain, unable to discern how I would possibly walk up there the next morning. The one thing I knew for certain is the following day would be long and difficult and I would need to get a good night’s sleep.

I passed a dozen other backpackers camping clustered near the northern shoulder of the lake and found a secluded spot along the guitar’s neck.

After setting up camp, my plan was to eat, sort my gear for the next day, and get to bed early. Unfortunately, when I went to purify my water I realized that the cap to one of my chemical water treatment bottles had come undone and the bottle had emptied its contents inside my pack. Now instead of the five minute process of adding chemicals to my water I had to boil the three liters of water I would need the next day. After several tedious rounds of collecting water,boiling it, and letting it cool, my hydration bladder was full.

Now that I had everything set for the next morning. I climbed into my sleeping bag hoping for a restful night before my early start. 

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Day Six: Guitar Lake to Whitney Portal

Distance: 14.3 miles
Vertical gain: 4,442 feet
Elevation range: 8,330 to 14,505 feet

The following morning (if you can call it that). I woke to the sound of my alarm at 2:30 AM. I crawled out of my sleeping bag into the cold air and peered out of my tent into a moonless night. When I went to bed the previous evening, I could see Guitar Lake and Mount Whitney illuminated by the light of the setting moon. But now, the landscape was pitch black except for the sea of stars overhead. As I looked towards the mountains, I could see the faint light of two headlamps in the distance from two hikers already making their way along the trail.

In the darkness I packed my gear and started off along the trail. In the light of my headlamp, my breath illuminated as each exhale collided with the cold air. I crossed the inlet to Guitar Lake and my shoes crunched over shallow sections of the stream that had partially frozen in the cold. I opted to keep my down jacket on as I slowly ascended as I had not yet generated enough body heat to brave the cold without it. After 1.25 miles, I arrived at the base of Mount Whitney and began a series of long switchbacks up its western face. In the darkness, the beam from my headlamp illuminated a narrow section of terrain as though I was walking through a tunnel. I could tell that I was climbing upward but the darkness made it impossible to tell how far I had ascended or how far I was from the top. My only reference point was the headlamps of the two other hikers now hundreds of feet above.

After climbing for several hours I reached the JMT/High Sierra Trail junction. Although the side trip to Mount Whitney is not technically part of the High Sierra Tail, it would be ridiculous to come all that way and not go the extra two miles to summit the highest mountain in the lower 48. So at the trail junction, I found a spot along the trail to stash any heavy and unnecessary gear and continued on the JMT towards the summit of Mount Whitney. I followed the gradual trail along the western side of Whitney’s southern ridge as the rising sun began to shed light on the landscape below. In the early morning twilight I could now see Guitar Lake and the path I had taken just hours earlier.

While traversing the mountainside the trail passed several massive notches in the eastern side of the mountains. These notches created massive windows revealing grand views and a look at the sheer vertical eastern face of the mountain. Furious winds prevented me from taking any photos, but the view through them as the sun was rising was spectacular.

As I continued towards the summit the altitude began to slow my progress. I was hiking slowly, I was breathing hard, and my appetite was gone. The summit was visible in the distance, but it still seemed painfully far away. I could now see other hikers making their way to the summit from the eastern side. Fueled by some friendly competition, I pushed myself slowly onward. I walked forward 50 yards, stood and took a break, then trudged forward another 50 yards. Finally, around 8 AM I made it to the summit!

Cold and exhausted I hastily posed for a summit photo and then dashed into the summit hut to relax and eat. After refueling and swapping stories with some fellow hikers I left the relative warmth of the hut and headed back into the elements to start my descent.

I made good time descending the two miles back to the trail junction with the High Sierra Trail. As I headed back, I passed a steady stream of hikers making their way to the top and I was glad I got an early start to avoid the rush.

Back at the trail junction I collected my stashed hiking gear and repacked my backpack. By now the sun was well overhead and I as finally warm enough to take off my down jacket, beanie, and gloves that I had been wearing since I woke up.

Despite the challenge of hiking to the summit, I knew the real challenge was just beginning. The climb that morning was just over 3,000 feet, but the descent to Whitney Portal would be a brutal 6,500 feet! After leaving the junction, the trail quickly began a series of 100 short and steep switchbacks that descended the 1,600 feet from Trail Crest down to Trail Camp.

The next several hours were a blur of descending thousands of feet along granite trail. This section of trail was by far the most difficult of the entire trip. My legs were already fatigued after the previous five days of hiking and now I was exhausted after hiking to the top of Mount Whitney. I was extremely happy to have trekking poles to help take the weight off my aching knees and feet.The journey to the parking area felt like ages, but around four PM, nearly 13 hours after my day began, I made it to Whitney Portal and the end of my High Sierra Trail hike.

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