High Sierra Trail – Backpacking Guide

The High Sierra Trail is an unforgettable backpacking route located in the southern Sierra Nevada. The impressive trail crosses the Sierra by traveling over the Great Western Divide and the Sierra Crest. Along the way, hikers are treated to excellent alpine scenery, backcountry hot springs, and an unforgettable ascent up Mount Whitney.

Trail Information

Location: Southern Sierra Nevada
Distance: 73 miles
Days required: 6–9
Route type: Point-to-point
Type of route: On maintained trail
Vertical ascent: 19,094 feet
Max altitude: 14,505 feet
Difficulty: Strenuous
When to go: July through September
Permits: Required
Fees: $10 per permit + $5 per person
Dogs: No

***UPDATE for 2019***

As of 2019 there is a section of trail that is blown out just past Hamilton Lake. The blowout occurs after the switchbacks that climb up from Hamilton Lake but before the tunnel. The condition of this section of trail is evolving and there is no plan for it to be repaired in the near future. I have not seen this section for myself, however I have been following the trip reports of hikers this sesaon and reports are varied regarding how difficult it is to pass. Some are saying it is easy and others report it is sketchy.  Apparently you must climb down to a ledge below the blowout and then climb back up to the trail on the other side. I recommend speaking with a ranger and/or exploring the High Sierra Trail Facebook page for the most up to date information.

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Why You Should Go

• Experience beautiful high alpine scenery
• Summit Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States
• Enjoy a backcountry soak at Kern Hot Spring
• Take advantage of good fishing opportunities

     Things to Consider      

• It’s a 6 hour drive (by road) from one trailhead to the other
• Hikers must pack out human waste between Guitar Lake and Whitney Portal Trailhead
• Permits can be difficult to get during the most popular times
• Be prepared for cold, windy, and icy conditions on the trail to summit Mount Whitney

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Trail Map and Profile

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Getting to the Trailhead

Because this is a point-to-point hike, the transportation between trailheads is challenging.

Starting trailhead: Crescent Meadow Trailhead
Ending trailhead: Whitney Portal Trailhead

Option A: With two or more people hiking, you can shuttle this route with two cars.

Option B: This is how I did it without getting a second person to drive me:

• Purchase a one-way car rental to Visalia, CA
• Take the Sequoia Shuttle to the Giant Forest Museum, in Sequoia National Park ($15, reservations required, stops running early September)
• Take the free park shuttle (route 1) to the Lodgepole Visitor Center
• Pick up permits at the Lodgepole Visitor Center
• Take the free park shuttle (route 1 + route 2) from Lodgepole to the Crescent Meadow Trailhead
• Hike the High Sierra Trail
• Use the East Side Sierra Shuttle or hitch from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine
• Take Eastern Sierra Transit to Lancaster
• Take the Metrolink train back to Los Angeles

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When To Go

Weather: The best weather for the High Sierra Trail is between July and September. At Crescent Meadow, daytime highs average in the 70s, night temperatures average between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is important to note that the temperature will vary due to elevation changes. The High Sierra Trail begins at 6,700 feet and climbs to 14,505 feet atop Mount Whitney. As a general rule, the temperature drops 3.5 degrees Fahrenheit per every 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

Check the weather forecast for Mount Whitney and Sequoia National Park before starting your trip. On the hike, you can also obtain the most recent weather forecast from the ranger at Crabtree Ranger Station.

Snow: The trail to summit Mount Whitney is non-technical when free of snow. When snow or ice is on the trail, you will need mountaineering skills and equipment.  The trail is usually snow-free from July to late September. Even when there is no snow, the approach to the summit of Mount Whitney can be cold and windy.

Busy Season: The busiest month for the High Sierra Trail is August. To avoid the crowds, try for a trip in September, after Labor Day.

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Permits

Permits are required and cost $10 per permit + $5 for each person.

Reserved permits: Approximately two-thirds of the daily entry quota can be reserved in advance by following these directions. Applications are accepted via mail or email between March 1 at 12:01am PST and two weeks ahead of your start date.

You can check availability here for the High Sierra Trail for your preferred dates before applying.

Walk-up Permits: If you are unable to secure a permit in advance, approximately one-third of the trailhead quota is available on a first-come, first-serve basis. Permits are available at the Lodgepole Station starting at 1pm the day before departure or on the day of departure.

 

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Difficulty

The High Sierra Trail is a maintained trail, making hiking and route finding straightforward. While most of the trail is beautifully graded, the climb over the Kaweah Gap, the descent into the Kern Trench, and the ascent/descent of Mount Whitney are challenging.

Expect knee-busting sections of rock-formed steps during big ascents and descents. The 6,000-foot descent from atop Mount Whitney to Whitney Portal is especially brutal. The descent kicks off with 99 tight switchbacks followed by miles of uneven terrain. I highly recommend using trekking poles to save your ankles and knees.

Altitude sickness can also be a concern because the majority of this trail sits above 8,000 feet. Planning to camp at lower elevations for the first few nights of the trip will assist with acclimating. If you find yourself suffering from the symptoms of altitude sickness (dizziness, fatigue, headache, shortness of breath, and a rapid heart rate), descend to a lower elevation.

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 Itinerary

The minimum number of days I would recommend to complete the High Sierra Trail is six. This is a moderate to strenuous pace depending on one’s fitness level and pack weight.

The mileage listed below is approximate. I found that my guidebook, GPS, Caltopo, and the national park service distances all varied by between one and two miles each day.

Day 1: Travel from Los Angeles/Crescent Meadow Trailhead to Merhten Creek Camp (5.4 miles)
Day 2:Merhten Creek Camp to Big Hamilton Lake (8.7 miles)
Day 3:Big Hamilton Lake to Moraine Lake (13.9 miles)
Day 4:Moraine Lake to Junction Meadow (13.7 miles), midday stop at Kern Hot Spring
Day 5: Junction Meadow to Guitar Lake (12.4 miles)
Day 6: Guitar Lake to Whitney Portal Trailhead, including the 2.4 mile (each way) spur trail to summit Mount Whitney (15.6 miles)

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Campsites

You can camp on the High Sierra Trail after Panther Creek (2.8 miles from Crescent Meadow).

To assist with trip planning, you can view a list of common camping areas along the High Sierra Trail, along with hiking distances, here.

Restrictions: Camping at Hamilton Lakes is restricted to one night; camping at Crabtree and Guitar Lake is limited to two nights.

Campsite selection                                             

• Camp on durable surfaces (rock, sand, dirt, or snow). Use previously impacted campsites. Never camp on vegetation.
• Always try to camp at least 200 feet away from water. However, park rules specify that you can camp within 25 feet of water when at well-established campsites.
• Avoid camping beneath dead trees or dead branches.

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Maps and Guidebooks

 

Guidebook: Sierra South: Backcountry Trips in California’s Sierra Nevada – 8^th Edition: This is my favorite book for planning trips in the Southern Sierra Nevada.

Digital Maps: I researched my route online and printed out maps for free from home using Caltopo. Then, I used the Gaia phone app GPS when on the trail.

Print maps: If you prefer good old-fashioned paper maps, they are available from the following sources:

• Five-minute USGS Maps: Lodgepole, Triple Divide Peak, Mt. Kaweah, Chagoopa Falls, Mt. Whitney, Mt. Langley
• National Geographic Maps: Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and Mount Whitney
• Tom Harrison Maps: Whitney High Country 

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Water

Water sources are plentiful along the High Sierra Trail. I typically only carried 1L of water at a time and filled up as needed when passing water sources. I did carry 3L of water on my last day because the trail has no water sources from the small unnamed ponds just above Guitar Lake until trail camp (about nine miles, including the summit of Mount Whitney).

Although the water sources may look pure, Giardia can be found in streams and lakes. Boil, filter, or purify water before drinking. I use the Sawyer Squeeze as my primary filter and pack Aquamira Drops as a backup.

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Campfires

You can have campfires in Sequoia National Park. West of the Kaweah Gap, campfires are not allowed in Hamilton Lakes Basin or above 9,000 feet. East of the Kaweah Gap, campfires are not allowed above 10,000 feet.

Campfires are not allowed in the Whitney Zone.

Where fires are allowed, always use existing fire rings. Use only dead wood found on the ground to build fires. Do not burn trash. Also, always put out your campfire with water and stir the ashes.

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Hazards

Acute Mountain Sickness (altitude sickness): Acute Mountain Sickness can occur in anyone regardless of physical fitness. It usually occurs at altitudes greater than 10,000 feet but can also set in as low as 8,000 feet. Symptoms of altitude sickness include shortness of breath, headache, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. These symptoms can usually be prevented by spending a night at altitude before you start your hike and scheduling an easy first day of hiking with a low-altitude campsite. If you experience symptoms of acute mountain sickness, try rest, hydration, and mild analgesics (acetaminophen or ibuprofen). If symptoms persist or worsen, then the only treatment is to descend to a lower altitude.

Bears: Black bears are present along the High Sierra Trail. Bears have learned over time to associate hikers with food, and they are incredibly intelligent when it comes to figuring out how to get food. When on the trail, never leave food or scented items unattended. In camp, be sure to store all food and scented items in either a bear canister or food storage locker (when available). If a bear does come into your camp, keep a safe distance.Usually, making loud noises will scare them off. If a bear does get your food, do not try to get it back.

Streams: In the early season, especially after a wet winter, river crossings may be dangerous. Ask a ranger about potentially difficult stream crossings before starting your trip. If you do come across a difficult crossing, look upriver and downriver for a safe place to cross. Use common sense.If a stream is extremely fast or deep, turn around. Drowning is the number one cause of death in the Sequoia National Park backcountry.

Mosquitoes: The mosquito season is typically July and early August. September is usually mosquito free. Long sleeves, tents with bug netting, mosquito headnets, and Deet will help make trips during mosquito season more comfortable.

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Food storage

Park-approved animal-resistant food containers are highly recommended in Sequoia National Park, and they are required if camping in the Whitney Zone (between Trail Crest and Whitney Portal Trailhead). If you don’t have a container, they can be rented from the visitor center, as well as REI.

Food-storage boxes may be used along the High Sierra Trail instead of an animal-resistant food container. Keep in mind that you will be limited to camping where these boxes are located. Additionally, these boxes must be shared with other campers.

During my 2018 trip, there were food-storage boxes at the following locations:
Merhten Creek
Nine Mile Creek crossing
Buck Creek crossing
Bearpaw
Big Hamilton Lake
Big Arroyo Crossing
Moraine Lake
Upper Funston Meadow
Kern Hot Spring
Junction Meadow
Wallace Creek/John Muir Trail Junction
Crabtree Ranger Station

Use this park map and list of food-storage box locations to plan your campsites.

If you plan to camp only at campsites with food-storage boxes, then you can complete this hike without using a bear canister. However, the hike from Crabtree Ranger Station to Whitney Portal is 19.1 miles, not to mention summiting the tallest peak in the contiguous US along the way. Many backpackers save space and weight by using the food-storage lockers for the majority of the trip and then bring along a small bear canister for the final one or two nights.

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Thanks!

Thanks so much for checking out my backpacking guide for the High Sierra Trail. I Hope that this guide will help you have an excellent trip. As always, please remember to follow Leave No Trace principles to preserve the natural state of the places we love. Feel free to comment below if you have any questions, suggestions, or good vibes you want to share. If you found this guide useful, please like, pin, and share using the “share” icons below.

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